Archive for Quick Tips


Quick Tip: Simple Targeting Tip

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Whether you target at the arrows or any other place on the lane it’s important to focus on your target for longer than a split second.  Focusing on the target for a longer period will translate to better accuracy, and better physical mechanics.  I’ve found with a lot of youth bowlers with the get up and go fast fast fast attitude, this is a great way of “tricking” them into slowing down and getting set before they deliver the ball.  I have no doubts that this will translate well whether you are an adult or a youth.

I’d recommend starting by staring down your mark and counting to yourself (or aloud) 1001, 1002.  Then deliver the bowling ball.  If you use a focal point down lane to line up your shot you can do the same thing for this point as well.  So you’d go focal point for a 2 count, and then back to your closer target for a 2 count, then deliver the bowling ball.

Go ahead and try it and let me know how it works for you by leaving a comment below.

Bonus Tip: Take Your Time

I see a lot of bowlers who feel rushed when they get on the approach.  You should take an amount of time you need to get yourself set.  Don’t worry about what everyone else is doing, this is your turn.  Go through your pre-shot routine and make the most of each delivery.

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Proper Orientation of Bowling Tape

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Proper orientation of thumb tape can be the difference between a clean exit of the thumb hole and one that drags.  One common mistake I see is putting bowling tape in upside down.

The Wrong Way

This mistake stems from the fact that the thumb tip is shaped like the end of the tape and the assumption is that the tape is to be positioned like the shape of the thumb.  The real reason the tape is rounded at the top so you don’t feel or peel up the corners as your thumb is inserted or exiting the hole.

The Correct Way

When done correctly the round part of the tape should end up near the top of the hole.  I suggest placing the first piece just below (1/8″-1/4″) the beveled part of the thumbhole.

The Finished Product

As you can see from the pictures I personally use white textured tape in the front, but I also use 2 black pieces offset in the back.  Feel free to experiment with your tape textures and placement until you get a feel that is comfortable for you, but white in the front should be a good starting point for most people.

I am yet to meet a bowler that wouldn’t benefit by using bowling tape.  If tape doesn’t fit in your thumb hole (becomes too tight), get it opened up a bit so you can at least get a couple pieces in there.  You don’t want to be surprised the first time your thumb swells as it will inevitably happen during competition and you’ll have no easy options in place to fix it.  How delightful it will be when you can just remove a piece of tape and continue knocking down the pins effortlessly.

If you don’t have any tape you can grab some at your local pro shop or online here.

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Quick Tips: Cover The Wood

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Before we begin when I say phrases like “covering the wood,” or “picking up the wood,” I’m referring to picking up the pins on one side of a split (the side that has more pins).  For example a common split is the 6-7-10.  If a teammate shouted “don’t worry about it, just go for the wood,” they are basically telling you to just pick up the 6-10.  If a 7-10 split was made, either the 7 or the 10 pin could be the wood.  Ok, lets move on.

Every bowler comes faced with a split every now and again, but whether or not you should attempt to make the split, or just go for the wood often confuses people.  I’d say more often than not attempting to cover railroad* splits or splits of similar difficulty is a bad idea unless you need those pins to have any chance of winning the match.  If that is the case have at it, otherwise over the long haul you’ll get more pins out of just covering the wood.

Think about it realistically.  Say you can cover a 4 pin 90 times out of 100.  How many times are you going to cover a 4-6 in 100 tries.  Let’s assume you are attempting the convert the 4-6 and you now only hit a pin 50% of the time. That means you’ve lost 50 pins.  You’d have to cover that spare at least 4 times in 100 to make it worthy of attempting.  Now with the 4-6 someone might argue they are capable of that, but realistically are you?

With that said you should always attempt certain splits.  The 2-7 and all baby splits like the 9-10, 7-8, etc. should all be attempted to convert. This is because you are not giving away any wood attempting to convert them.  Splits like the 5-10 and the 5-7 are situational but more often than not you should be attempting them unless you only need 1 pin to win or lock out an opponent.

*Railroad: A split with both pins on the same line (4-6, 7-9, 8-10, 7-10)

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